Jannice Newson is the founder and CEO of Lillian Augusta Beauty (LAB), where they have developed a new bio-based braiding hair.  Braiding hair is used for hair extensions in styles like braids and twists. Historically, it has been made by blending plastics like polyacrylonitrile and polyvinyl chloride, which can cause users to develop allergies. LAB has created an option that is hypoallergenic, lightweight and bio-based to create a safer and more comfortable experience.

Full disclosure: I've been advising Lillian Augusta Beauty since 2020 and have invested in the company. I’ve been inspired by their journey and purpose and am excited to help share it.

AN: Where did this idea come from?

JN: I wear braids, and my background is in environmental science. I've done a lot of research in wetlands, forests, and agro-ecosystems, and it was easy to wear braids during these projects. However, I was starting to get allergic reactions to the braiding hair. This sounded an awful lot like skin sensitization, which is when you develop a new allergy to a chemical, just from being exposed to it.

I would spend a weekend doing my hair, and by the end of the following week, I needed to take it down. These styles take a long time to put in and are supposed to last longer than this. I was complaining to a friend about the itchy, heavy braids, and the acne on my forehead. We realized it was the material causing these issues, and the typical solution, rinsing the false hair in acetic acid, didn't help. After that conversation, I couldn't stop thinking about it. I would never buy shampoo that makes my hair fall out, so why tolerate this with braids? The next day, I decided to start a business to solve this problem, and that's how it all got started.

AN: When you first got started, what were the initial materials and  prototypes like?

JN: The product looked very different, which is a nice way of saying it looked awful. The first version was made at the University of Michigan, where I was pursuing a master's. We used an invasive species that came up in my research called Phragmites (sounds like frag-mighty-s). We thought, why not make use of this nuisance plant to create the hair? We went out with garden shears in the winter, cut down Phragmites, and took it to the lab. The first version looked like twisted twigs dipped in water, but that was our humble beginning.

AN: So you used an invasive…reed? What is Phragmites?

JN: Phragmites is an invasive species found in the Midwest, growing in wetlands. It causes problems for wetland ecosystems, diminishes property value, and makes hunting and fishing difficult. It's a tall reed that crowds out native plants and ruins the look of wetlands.

AN: Thinking back to that first prototype, what was the process like to get to where you are today?

JN: Getting started was hard. We tried processes for fiber extraction but didn't have the equipment. For example, we needed something to apply pressure to the fiber, so we wrapped Phragmites in a tarp and drove over it. We were thinking creatively with what we had. However, in 2020, the lab we were working in closed due to the pandemic, so we moved the work to my basement and bought a fiber decortication line to convert the reeds into fiberline. We were determined to find a solution, not just for ourselves but for everyone who wears this hair. We then found a consultant in the textile industry, who opened doors to some R&D partnerships. It was a remote process with many iterations, and finally, in 2023, we found something that worked well. We’ve been testing it with friends, taking feedback, and making improvements to lead up to our launch last month!

AN: You mentioned bringing in a fiber industry consultant—how did that change things?

JN: Yes, it was both a language and network thing. We were unknown in the industry, so having someone well-connected helped facilitate conversations. We went from being two students with an idea, to being founders with a high potential product.

AN: So was this always the plan? What were you expecting to do when you started graduate school?

JN: My plan was to be a wetland ecologist studying mangroves in the Caribbean. However, this project became more important. Shifting to entrepreneurship wasn't too difficult because I was in a supportive environment. I was able to literally walk over to the business school at UMich, present my idea, and they helped me with grants and business plans. It was a huge privilege being a student with access to resources like this.

AN: Were there any surprises or wake-up calls you've encountered over the last few years?

JN: Early on, I was making promotional materials and focusing on plastic pollution, but that wasn't resonating with others. I had to change my language from doom and gloom to offering a better option without harm. The biggest shift from scientist to entrepreneur was changing how I communicated.

“ The biggest shift from scientist to entrepreneur was changing how I communicated.”

AN: Right? communication really is everything. What's your focus now that you've launched the product?

JN: People need to know who we are, so we're doing a lot of events and promotions. We have the Woodlawn Plant-Based Festival on September 28th in Chicago, which is free to the public. We will also be at the annual Fleurotica Fashion Show on October 17th, where our model will wear our plant-based braiding hair.

AN: What impact do you want to have on the world and the hair industry?

JN: We want to give people delightful experiences instead of damaging ones. Our first step is with braiding hair, but we aim to expand into other false hair products to offer holistic, delightful experiences.

Thanks to Jannice for taking the time to talk about her journey from scientist to entrepreneur. For more about Lillian Augusta Beauty, and to check out their products visit hairwithoutharm.com. Find them on Instagram at @hairwithoutharm. If you’re in the Chicago area, visit them at the Woodlawn Plant-Based Festival on September 28th, and at the Fleurotica Fashion Show on October 17th.

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